Explore the Fox River

What compels you to wake up on a perfect summer morning? Perhaps you hear a voice saying, “Get out there. Run! Paddle! Bike!” Indeed, you know it will do you good to get moving, with the sun on your face and the wind in your hair. The only thing left to decide is where to go. On a perfect summer morning, water beckons me. I want to be on it, or near it. Wisconsin abounds with many places that satisfy this need. But in the east-central region of the state, one particular destination stands out: the twin cities of Neenah-Menasha on the historic Fox River. People and nature have all thrived in this spot for thousands of years. Water is the main reason. It nurtured the earliest inhabitants of Wisconsin and ultimately led to the development of modern cities that became worldwide centers of paper production and innovation. Today, the cities of Neenah and Menasha continue to look to the future, but also with a devotion to preserving and sharing the important events and landmarks of their past. With a long tradition of philanthropy that has resulted in exceptional public buildings, beautiful parks, and well-maintained trails, this community offers an outstanding quality of life and abundant recreational opportunities.

Sunrise on Winnebago

A great way and place to begin your exploration of Neenah-Menasha is to launch a canoe or kayak on Lake Winnebago at daybreak. An undeveloped landing at the east end of Wisconsin Avenue is the optimum place to start. From there, a short paddle takes you to Kimberly Point, where you enter the south channel of the Fox River. Doing so, you travel in a timeless way, in one of the most significant geographical places in the entire state. Connecting Lake Michigan to the Wisconsin River, from Green Bay to Portage, the Fox River played a huge role in the development of the place we call Wisconsin. According to historian Patrick Jung, it was a well-established trade route for Indigenous nations by the year 1400, likely even earlier. By the late 1600s, French fur traders and missionaries had also begun using it. Early in the day is the best time to paddle, because Lake Winnebago is extremely shallow and unpredictable. It gets choppy in a hurry, and with a typical southeast breeze, this end of the lake feels the maximum effect. Obviously, the river offers some wind protection but take caution around the Neenah and Menasha dams. To pass them safely, use the slack water, which leads you right into the heart of the cities. Take a look at them from your boat, then plan to explore them further on foot or by bike.

The Trestle Trail

On a bike, a logical place to begin your exploration of Neenah-Menasha is on the other end of the cities, on the west shore at Little Lake Butte des Morts, a widening of the Fox River. Here you can “loop the lake” on a 3.2-mile trail that features four splendid trestles. The longest of these spans the lake. Two others cross the “twin” rivers, which flow through the cities, and the last bridges Neenah Creek. Bikers, bear in mind, this is a multi-use trail. If you’re feeling the need for speed, it’s not the place to get it. Fishermen, bird watchers, photographers, baby stroller pushers, walkers, runners, skateboarders, scooters, and bikers all love this trail. So, take it easy and enjoy the view, and enjoy your company, which includes wildlife. Indeed, this is a great place for watching birds of all kinds, because water is a bird magnet. You’ll see bald eagles, ospreys, white pelicans, mallard ducks, geese, egrets, cormorants, loons, kingfishers, herons — just to name a few. Take your pick of places to hop on the Trestle Trail. The two most handy places are Herb and Dolly Smith Park and Fritse Park, both off Lake Street. Both have parking lots and restrooms. Either gives you a good point for getting your bearings on the lay of the land here —or perhaps I should say, “flow of the water.”

The sight and sound of running water always make me happy. So my two favorite spots along the Trestle Trail are the spans over the separate channels where they enter Little Lake Butte Des Morts. These are also places where the fishermen and birdwatchers congregate. Be kind and give them room. Also, the decking can be slippery from dew if you’re riding early in the day. That’s another good reason to slow down here.

The Twin Cities

The Trestle Trail is the gateway to the cities of Neenah and Menasha. Compared to most urban spaces, getting around on a bicycle here is a breeze. Except for Commercial Street, which is always busy and hazardous, you can safely ride almost any street or sidewalk you choose. Just beware that both cities prohibit bicycles on sidewalks in their downtown districts. This is hardly a game-changer, though, as these districts are only a couple of blocks long. That’s what makes them so unique. Indeed, you'll want to check them out. Most people love the great architecture, cleanliness, and “small-town vibe” of these twin cities. Farmers’ markets and outdoor concerts are highlights of the summer anywhere. In Neenah, the place to catch them is Shattuck Park, at 210 E. Wisconsin Avenue. The market bustles every Saturday morning, and most evenings on Wednesday this beautiful urban space rocks with live music. The river lies adjacent to this park, so as you shop or dance to the music, gulls and pelicans will be doing their own dance in the sky above you. All along Neenah’s Wisconsin Avenue, you will find many exquisite statues honoring famous American leaders.

From the west side of the business district, down to the far east side at Riverside Park, these works of art will indeed complement your “pedal through time.” Menasha has its own market — mostly non-food vendors —in the downtown courtyard, which is open from 10am to 2pm every Sunday from June 14 to August 30. If you like (and you probably should visit this AFTER your ride), there’s a beer garden at Jefferson Park. It’s called Brews on Bago. I love cruising along the paved trail through Jefferson Park, adjacent to the north channel of the Fox, looking out to Lake Winnebago. This trail continues a mile east to the edge of the city, past the Heckrodt Wetland Preserve. If you turn on the road that marks the west boundary of that natural area, you’ll reach the Menasha Municipal Beach, a good rest stop and place to enjoy a summer breeze.

One thing to note about biking here is the abundance of “speed bumps,” also known as railroad crossings. At one time, Doty Island was served by three railroads: the Chicago and Northwestern, the Milwaukee and Northern, and the Wisconsin Central. The latter was “born” here, becoming a major terminal for farming and logging.

Doty Island Time

For me, time takes on a different dimension when I arrive on Doty Island, especially on its eastern portion. Smith Park, a 24-acre jewel of green space, has a surprise. Toward the southern end of the park, look for an area of small mounds, which at first glance appear natural. They’re not. They are man-made. And they were built between 700 and 1100 AD by Woodland Indians of the Effigy Mound culture. Representing long-tailed water spirits, these are the surviving remnants of what was a large collection of effigy mounds that dotted the southeastern shore of this island. Most were destroyed by farming and home-building activities over the past two centuries. Whether or not you believe in the spiritual beliefs of the mound builders, it’s hard not to feel something here.

Getting off my bike and resting here makes me think about time. I wonder about all the things that took place here, even before people lived in Wisconsin. What a fantastic history we share of a place once covered by mile-deep glaciers that one day melted, the floodwaters going in every direction, scooping out drainages and creating a landscape no modern engineer could conceive.

For an easy and fun way to learn more about Neenah-Menasha history — including pioneer James Duane Doty, the second territorial governor of Wisconsin — take a guided tour of his summer home at 701 Lincoln Street. This nine-room “dog run” style double log house was moved to its present site in 1926 from its former location several hundred yards northeast.

Accurately reconstructed in 1948 from material salvaged from the original, it’s a great little museum with more than 2,000 historical artifacts and highly enthusiastic volunteer guides. But even if you don’t go inside, ride the grounds of Doty Park to get your bearings on the unique geography of this place. Directly south across the river is Riverside Park, always a pleasant ride.

The names of many cities and natural features of this area of Wisconsin honor the French and Indian nations. Neenah comes from the Ho-Chunk word for “water” or “running water”. Menasha comes from the Menominee, meaning “little island” or “settlement on the island”.

Extend Your Ride

If you want to really “burn out the carbon” and put some miles on your bike tires, there are several great trail options nearby. The Fox River State Trail runs 26.3 miles from Green Bay to Hilbert. At Forest Junction, it connects with the eastern segment of the Friendship State Trail, which branches off 5 miles to Brillion. The western segment of the Friendship State Trail begins at the Fox River Canal and Lock in Menasha and runs 10.7 miles west to Winchester. The first 1,600 feet is the northern trestle that crosses Little Lake Buttes des Morts. Here, you head west on pavement for 3.1 miles until you come to a trail surfaced with crushed limestone, which runs 7.6 miles to County Highway M in Winchester. Future plans envision the Friendship State trail running from Stevens Point to Manitowoc. Two miles east of County M in Winchester, the Friendship State Trail intersects the Wiouwash State Trail, which runs north-south for 22 miles from Hortonville to Oshkosh. One of the highlights of this trail is near the southern portion of the trail, where you’ll ride through an area of preserved native prairie. The rural feel of this trail is pleasant throughout the entire ride.